The cheapest way to do laundry is to wash full loads in cold water, use less detergent than the label suggests, skip extras like fabric softener and scent boosters, and air-dry whenever you can. For most households, that combination cuts costs more than switching brands or buying “special” products.
That’s it. No complicated system. No perfect routine. Just fewer add-ons and more realistic habits.
Below, I’ll explain why laundry has become so confusing (and expensive), what actually makes a difference in real homes, and when spending a little extra genuinely makes sense.
Why laundry feels more expensive than it should be
Laundry used to be simple. Now it’s an aisle full of “must-haves”:
- Laundry sanitizer
- Fabric softener
- Scent beads
- Colour catchers
- Special detergents for every fabric
- Extra rinse products
- Dryer sheets
Most people aren’t overspending because they’re careless. They’re overspending because they’ve been quietly taught that basic washing isn’t enough anymore.
Marketing leans hard on ideas like:
- Clothes aren’t really clean without antibacterial products
- Towels need softener or they’ll be ruined
- Cold water doesn’t clean properly
- More detergent = cleaner clothes
None of those are true for everyday laundry. But once those ideas settle in, it’s easy to add $10–$20 a month without noticing.
What actually matters for cheaper laundry
1. Cold water does most of the work
Heating water is one of the biggest energy costs in laundry. Washing in cold cuts that cost immediately.
Modern detergents are designed to work in cold water. Unless you’re dealing with:
- Heavy grease
- Illness
- Cloth diapers
- Very dirty work clothes
…cold water is enough.
If you’re worried your clothes won’t feel clean, that’s usually a detergent buildup issue, not a temperature problem.
2. Use less detergent (seriously)
This is where a lot of money disappears.
Most machines and loads need about half of what the bottle shows. Those fill lines are generous for a reason.
Too much detergent:
- Doesn’t rinse out properly
- Makes clothes feel stiff or smelly
- Leads people to rewash loads (double cost)
- Builds residue in the machine
If your clothes don’t smell fresh after drying, try using less detergent, not more.
3. Skip fabric softener (it’s not saving you money)
Fabric softener feels like a small extra, but over a year it adds up — and it doesn’t actually help clothes last longer.
It:
- Coats fibers instead of cleaning them
- Reduces towel absorbency
- Leaves buildup in machines
- Often causes people to rewash items
If towels feel hard, that’s usually detergent residue or overdrying, not a lack of softener.
4. Wash full loads — but don’t overload
Running half-empty loads costs the same in energy and water as fuller ones.
At the same time, stuffing the machine too tightly:
- Reduces cleaning power
- Causes friction damage
- Leads to rewashing
A “full” load should still let clothes move freely. Think full drum, not compressed drum.
5. Air-dry when you can (even part-time)
Dryers are convenient — and expensive.
You don’t have to line-dry everything to save money. Even small changes help:
- Air-dry heavier items (jeans, hoodies, towels)
- Use a rack overnight
- Hang clothes for the last 25% of drying
This also makes clothes last longer, which saves money in the long run.
Things that sound “cheap” but often aren’t
Washing clothes more often than needed
Overwashing:
- Uses more water and energy
- Wears clothes out faster
- Increases detergent use
Most everyday clothes don’t need washing after one wear. Jeans, hoodies, and jumpers especially fall into this category.
Rewashing “musty” clothes
If clothes smell off after washing, it’s tempting to run them again.
But rewashing costs more than fixing the root problem:
- Too much detergent
- Overloaded machine
- Washing machine needs cleaning
A cleaner machine and lighter detergent use usually solve this.
Buying specialty products for normal laundry
You usually don’t need:
- Laundry sanitizer for everyday clothes
- Antibacterial sprays for worn-once items
- Scent boosters to feel “clean”
These are best saved for edge cases — not weekly loads.
When spending a bit more actually makes sense
Cheapest doesn’t mean “never spend”.
It can be worth spending slightly more when:
- Someone in the house is sick (hot wash or sanitizer temporarily)
- You have greasy or heavily soiled work clothes
- You’re washing bedding or towels after illness
- Your water is extremely hard and causes buildup
The key is using these tools occasionally, not automatically.
That distinction alone saves most households money.
A realistic low-cost laundry routine
If you want a simple baseline, here’s one that works for most people:
- Cold wash for everyday clothes
- Warm wash for bedding and towels
- Half the recommended detergent
- No fabric softener
- Full but not overstuffed loads
- Air-dry when possible
- Clean the washing machine every couple of months
That’s it. No perfect system. Just fewer unnecessary costs.
A quick word on guilt and “doing it wrong”
If you’ve been:
- Using too much detergent
- Buying every new laundry product
- Rewashing loads that didn’t feel right
You’re not wasteful. You were responding to confusing advice.
Laundry has been overcomplicated on purpose.
The cheapest way to do laundry isn’t about being strict or perfect. It’s about doing less, not more, and trusting that clean doesn’t need to be complicated.
If your clothes are clean, your bills are lower, and laundry feels manageable — you’re doing it right.
